Sanya, China - Travel Diary (Travelogue)

They call it the " Hawaii of the Orient" and its for a reason. This beautiful town is blessed with sun-kissed beaches, sunshine all around the year and a pollution free environment. Sanya is located in Hainan, the smallest province in China and lies in the Southernmost tip of China.


GETTING HERE : The Sanya Airport doesn't serve international flights. So most passengers need to take a domestic flight from Guangzhou ( the closest international airport), Shenzen, Shanghai or Beijing. Sanya is 1 hr flight from Guangzhou. Sanya airport has excellent connectivity to most domestic destinations and what Chinese term as "international destinations" - Hong Kong, Taiwan, Macau.

VISA DETAILS : Most nationalities need a visa to enter China. Tourist visas are fairly easy to obtain and can be obtained through an agent.

WHEN TO GO : Tourists flock year-round to Sanya. Sanya has sunny weather year round with upper 20's (c) in Spring, Winter and lower 30's in autumn, summer. Be prepared to come with plenty of Sunscreen lotion.

CURRENCY : The Currency of China is Yuan (renmimbi). There are foreign exchange counters all over.

LANGUAGE :Of course, they speak Chinese in China. Most taxi drivers, shop owners, tourist operators do not know English. Luckily, all road signs are in English, aiding tourists . Make sure that you carry maps that can guide you. Also carry a translation guide or get the names of attractions written in Mandarin. Sign language is universal and always helps !

LOCATION : Sanya is in Hainan province in the southern most tip of China.

TRANSPORT :

Buses: There are hardly any public buses in Sanya and hence its not a preferred mode of transport ( unless you are relying on tour operators).

Taxis : Taxis are the most relied form of transport . Make sure that you agree on the price before embarking on the trip.Do remember that most drivers do not know English.

Cars / Bikes : Can be rented and is a good option if you know the island well.


TIMEZONE : Sanya is GMT + 8 hours.

HOTELS : Since I went to speak at a conference, I stayed at the Hilton resort & spa in Yalong Bay, China. It was a lovely property with its private beach. Can't dream of staying there on a personal trip.

FOOD :Sanya has a great choice of restaurants. Being a vegetarian, I was lucky since the event organizers took care of my special dietary needs. The Nanshan complex ( which is the biggest tourist attraction) is completely meat free due to its Buddhist roots and is a great place to gorge on oriental veg food.


TOURIST ATTRACTIONS:

Beaches

The Yalong Bay has some of the best ( expensive) hotels and beaches.

Nanshan Complex

This complex is located 40 kms from Sanya and attracts lots of tourists. The highlight of the complex is the 350 feet tall bronze statue of Buddha, perched majestically on the ocean. It is supposed to be the second largest Buddha statue in the world and is truly amazing.

Other highlights in the complex include the Gold & Jade Buddha statue which is 3.8 meters high, costing over 100kg of gold, 120 carat of South African diamond, thousands of pieces of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, corals, boulders, pearls and more than 100kg of jade. You gotta see it to believe it !

The Dharma door of non-duality has some spectacular flower displays, landscaping and provides for some good photo-ops.

The entrance to the complex is Yuan 150. The whole complex might take 3-4 hrs to see on foot. There are battery operated vehicle (fee payable) if you want to do a quick tour.


FINAL WORD : Sanya was spectacular, very different from the other beach towns I have seen in south east Asia. I just wish I had more time to spend but that is asking for too much in a business trip.

Bali - Travel Diary ( Travelogue)

The island of gods, beaches and handicrafts offers a unique experience for travelers. Bali is famous for numerous things - Ruined temples, sun kissed beaches, lush rice fields, breathtaking volcanoes, Music & dance and above all people.There is always something for everyone who visits Bali.

I had been intending to visit Bali for a long time but the terrorist attacks in 2005 made me cancel my trip and am glad I finally " been there ; done that".

HISTORY : Indians started arriving in Bali from as early as 7th century A.D and Hinduism still exerts a powerful influence . Hinduism is the dominant religion in Bali island with close to 95% of the population being Hindus. The Hindu way of life permeates across the culture of Bali by deeply influencing its dance, music, spirituality, food and living.

GETTING HERE : The only international airport at Bali is in Denpesar. Bali has excellent connectivity to most parts of Asia Pacific, Europe & North America.

VISA DETAILS : Most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival (including Indians) . It costs US$ 10 if your stay is for 7 days and US$25 if the stay is 8-30 days. No photo is required for Visa on arrival.Make sure that you carry the exact amount of US dollars ( not any other equivalent currency else you may get a poor exchange rate).

WHEN TO GO : Tourists flock year-round to Bali. Bali has a typical tropical climate - hot and humid. The best time to travel is from April to September when its dry. December can be very rainy and crowded. Be prepared to come with plenty of Sunscreen lotion since it could quite hot during most part of the year. Bali can also be quite dusty and filled with insects. As a caution, bring anti-allergy tablets and general purpose medicines.

CURRENCY : The Currency of Indonesia is Rupiah . There are foreign exchange counters all over. The best exchange rates can be obtained away from tourist centers in Bali rather than your home country ( The exchange rate at Changi airport was 6250 Rp, 6400 Rp at Denpesar airport and 6600 Rp inside Bali ). At the time of writing, 1 USD = 9,700 Rupiah.

LANGUAGE : Bahasa Indonesia is the most spoken language in Indonesia. People in Bali speak Balinese Bahasa that is quite unique to the island. English is spoken quite haltingly in tourist places. Make sure that you speak English slowly and clearly when conversing . In the rural areas people speak only Bahasa. All road signs are in English, aiding tourists in Bali.

LOCATION : Indonesia is in the ASEAN region and is close to Singapore & Malaysia. Bali is one of the 17000 islands that makes up the archipelago nation of Indonesia. Bali island is around 144 Km X 80 Km.

TRANSPORT :

Buses: There are hardly any public buses in Bali and hence its not a preferred mode of transport ( unless you are relying on tour operators).

Taxis : Taxis are the most relied form of transport although metered taxis are quite rare. Make sure that you agree on the price ( always after haggling) before embarking on the trip.

Cars / Bikes : Can be rented and is a good option if you know the island well. The road directions in Bali are quite poor and hence one needs to be careful about this option.

Bemo : A form of mini bus that plies between key towns in Bali. Is quite cheap although the reliability isn't very convincing.

TIMEZONE :Bali is GMT + 8 hours.

HOTELS : Hotels range from extremely cheap ( as low as $5 / day ) to really expensive depending on where you stay.

If you are a beach person, stay at Kuta ( the most popular), Seminyak, Jimbaran, Legion or Sanur.

I stayed at Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. Ubud has some fabulous resorts that are extremely tranquil & serene.

FOOD : Bali has an eclectic choice of restaurants. The best restaurants are found at Kuta, Seminyak. Being a vegetarian is hardly an issue in Bali since most restaurants serve some kind of Veg food.

The good Indian restaurants are :

a) Bumbu Bali, Ubud : Is located opposite to Ubud palace. The limited Thali costs Rp41,500 ++ and is a good "deal". The food isn't typical Indian but a mix of balinese & Indian. I would rate it 6/10.

b) Indian delities , Ubud : Is located close to ARMA museum in Ubud. Authentic Indian fare and a meal for two would cost around Rp200,000. I would rate it 7/10.


TOURIST ATTRACTIONS:

Beaches

Kuta : The most popular beach in Bali and a great place for nightlife & water sports. There is also a water theme park in Kuta for kids & adults.

Kuta has suffered over the years due to its popularity. The scar of 2005 bombings are yet to heal and the place is also a constant traffic nightmare during tourist season.

Legian : Is a little less quieter than Kuta and is further up north.

Seminyak : Is the "high end" place filled with flashy lifestyle and western style malls. I wouldn't recommend staying here - its expensive, phony and boring.

Jimbaran : Lies just south of Kuta and is much quieter and a decent place for families.

Sanur : This beach lies on the east side of Bali, which means you don't get to see the fabulous sunset. Beach isn't that great either.

Temples :

Most temples in Bali are ruins and hence set the right expectation before you visit.

Pura Luhur Ulu Watu : Is one of the nine directional temples of Bali and lies in the southern tip of the island perched majestically facing the ocean. The sunset view from the temple is amazing and don't miss it. The temple has a lot of mischievous monkeys so pls be very careful about your belongings ( Don't have any loose items including spectacles - I saw a monkey grabbing the specs of a person next to me).

Pura Tanah Lot : Lies on the South-west coast and is one of the most photographed spots in Bali. The temple is an island in the ocean ( though the island is just 10 ms away from the beach!) and can be reached during low tide. The temple isn't much to boast about but the sunset is fabulous. Many consider this to be the perfect sunset spot in Bali ( Although I would rate Ulu Watu higher).

Pura Taman Ayun ( Mengwi) : Is a royal temple surrounded by a huge moat. The verdant green lawns add to the lustre of this place. I liked this temple a lot and would highly recommend visiting it.

Pura Tirta Empul: Beautiful temple located in North. There are natural springs that gush out and are supposed to have healing powers. The bathing place is quite clean and if you are religious, this temple should be on your "must visit" list.

Pura Masceti: Is located in the South east and is one of the nine directional temples. The temple is quite ordinary but the beach is good (and devoid of crowds) with black sand.

Pura Besakih: Is located in North and is considered the "Mother temple". It is actually a series of interconnected temples. The walk from the parking lot is about a km (though there are bike drivers willing to drive u upto the temple for a fee). I couldn't visit this temple since it rained continuously the day I went there.

Gunung Kawi : Located close to Ubud, this complex consists of 10 rock cut temples. The walk is quite steep and takes around 15-20 mins but the views are breathtaking.

Goa Gajah : Located near Ubud, this is a cave having Ganesha & Shiva idols. The entrance to the cave has a daunting figure that is supposed to ward off evils.

Monkey forest temple : Located at the heart of monkey forest. The temple is in ruins but there is a spectacular monkey demon statue and of course plenty of monkeys.

Dances :

Balinese dances are world famous and Ubud is the place to go for genuine performances ( The Kuta dances are mostly shortened version for tourists). I attended most dance performances at the Ubud palace in a open courtyard. Tickets normally costs Rp70,000 - 80,000 and can be purchased at the tourist office opposite to the Palace. Most performances start at 730pm and last for 90 minutes. Make sure that you take mosquito repellants with you.

Kecak Dance : The most famous dance performance held as a choir. Themes are often borrowed from epics and often accompanied by fire display.

Legong Dance : With elaborate costumes and performed by young girls, this dance is very graceful. I saw the "Mahabharatha" theme being enacted by the Legong dancers ( Don't expect the entire story of Mahabharatha, in most cases a small incident from the epic is illustrated).

Barong dance : Its the battle between good ( barong) & evil ( rangda). It is quite a spectacle with elements of suspense & drama.

Volcanoes :

Gunung Batur : Don't miss the Gunung Batur Volcano & Lake ( near Kintamani). The views, on a clear day, are terrific. I was extremely lucky here. It was raining cats & dogs when I landed near the Volcano. By the time I came back from Lunch, the rain had stopped and the sun smiled at me beautifully !


SHOPPING : Bali is a great place for shopping. Its famous for paintings, handicrafts and stone carvings. The " Pasar Seni", close to the Ubud Palace, is the best place for bargain hunting. The market starts at 9am and winds up by the afternoon. Be prepared to bargain (sometimes starting at less than one-third of what is quoted) if you want a good deal. I bought plenty of paintings, T-shirts, souvenirs here.

I would advise not to buy stuff near the tourist places as they tend to be expensive.

MISC : If you want to relax, get yourselves a massage - body/ foot.

How much would a trip cost ?

I went for 8 days to Bali from Singapore. I am a budget traveler ( I rarely stay in fancy 5 star hotels nor do I rent an expensive car to drive me around) who likes to backpack and travel with crowds. It cost me US$ 700 / person for the whole trip ( Includes Air travel, local transport, Accommodation, Temple entry fees, Food, Shopping , Departure tax , Visa fees, Misc ).

Do they speak English there ?

Most locals know a smattering of English that is enough for simple conversations. I didn't find the language to be a major issue. I had planned my trip well in advance and had the " Lonely Planet" guides and maps to tow me around. So the bottomline is, if you plan well , you should be able to manage.

Do I get Indian Food / Vegetarain food there?

Yes. I had already written reviews about the Indian restaurants in the "FOOD" section. Getting Veg food isn't a challenge in Bali.

How many days are enough to see Bali?

Depends on what you want. Plan for at least 4 days.

CAUTION :

a) Beware of street dogs. They are everywhere and bark constantly. Don't enter dark alleys alone after sunset.

b) Beware of touts who promise to be your tour guide or insist that the temple compulsorily requires guides.

c) People are extremely religious in Bali and I was often asked " Are you Indian?" or " Are you Hindu?". Irrespective of your religious beliefs, respect their culture and dress properly when entering temples.

FINAL WORD : Bali is a celebration of life and is a very unique place on this planet. It is where spirituality meets the surf and culture clashes with the malls. Most people would tend to love one of these contrasts.

At some level, you start wondering if Bali is over-rated - that is - if you haven't found your nirvana there.

Paris - Travel Diary (Travelogue)

There is Paris and then there is rest of the world. Arguments about " which is the most beautiful city in the world?" become moot less once you visit Paris. The city is a stunning blend of history, architectural grandeur and natural beauty.

VISA DETAILS : Indian nationals need a " Schengen" Visa to enter France. I got my Visa in 3 days. Please remember that health insurance ( for the duration of stay both arrival and departure dates inclusive) is a must to obtain a " Schengan" visa.

WHEN TO GO : Tourists flock year-round to Paris - the city gets around 45 million tourists every year . Spring is the best time to go with the city at its colorful best but that is when the prices are high. Summer is a good time to go too but is very crowded. Autumn is a good time to find deals.

LANGUAGE : Of course they speak " French" ! It is advisable to brush up your French and carry a translation guide to help you. English is rarely spoken but most of the younger generation can speak sparing English. Nothing can be further from the truth than the myth that French don't speak English on purpose. They are extremely helpful to tourists. My limited French knowledge ( learnt at Alliance Francaise) finally found an avenue.

GEOGRAPHY : The city is sub-divided into 20 arrondissements. Most of the tourist attractions are in and around central Paris.


TRANSPORT :

Paris has one of the best public transportation systems in the world that is extremely well connected, accessible, and inexpensive.

Buses: The bus system is quite efficient but can be time-consuming due to the "Hub and spoke" model and traffic jams.

Taxis : Taxis are very expensive and hence are not a preferred mode of transport unless you have wads of money.

Boats : Great way to travel on the Seine river and access most of the famous tourist landmarks on the bank of river.

Foot : One of the best ways to see around Paris, particularly the central area where most of the landmarks are. Roads are generally safe but can be quite cold during the winter. Also watch out for the " Dog poo" that can be an irritant on the roads ( Parisians love their dogs but we don't love their excreta that is quite common on the streets).

Metro : The underground train - best way to travel around the city. Paris has more than 350 metro stations ( almost one every 500m) that connect most prime districts and landmarks. Though the Metro trains are quite old they run every 3-5 minutes, making it one of the most efficient modes of transport. Make sure you get a map at any Metro station. The map can be daunting at first due to the number of stations and the complex cobweb of lines but once you have done the trip once you should start picking up the threads.


Trains (RER) : The trains complement the Metro very well but their frequency is not as good as the Metro. The RER lines intersect with the Metro stations at specific interchanges.


My experience : I relied extensively on the metro and was able to cover most of Parisian landmarks with ease. I took a 2 day " Visite Pass" that cost me EUR14 and offered me limitless rides in any public transportation. I would highly recommend this to other visitors too.

TIMEZONE : Paris is GMT + 1 hour.

FOOD : Paris has many international cuisines with wide variety of choices for visitors. However, the food tends to be expensive ( particularly close to the tourist landmarks) in the city. Being a vegetarian ( like me) can be a problem due to the predominant meat based French cuisine. There are lots of Italian, Asian, Mediterranean and Indian restaurants in Paris. Italian cuisine has a limited choice of veggie pastas and pizzas. Tasty falafel sandwichs can be had at the Jewish / Mediterranean cuisines.

There are plenty of Indian restaurants ( at least 150+) in Paris. Most of these restaurants are owned by Sri Lankan Tamils and at least 100 of these are found at Rue Faubourg Saint-Denis in the North of Paris ( Near Gare Du Nord station / Metro). This area is also known as the " Little India" of Paris and is full of restaurants, saree, jewelery and music shops.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS:

Arc De Triomphe: A magnificent triumphal arch built in the memory of those who fought the Napoleonic wars. The famous " Avenue Des Champs Elysees" - one of the most famous streets in the world starts from here. Visitors can climb up the Arc either in a lift or using the stairs ( for a fee).

I was lucky that my hotel was just 5 mins away from the Arc.

Champs Elysees : The most famous avenue in Paris that is home to luxury shops, cafes and cinemas. The avenue looks spectacular at night with lights adorning the street. It has some of the biggest shops of luxury retailers such as Adidas, Nike, Zara, Louis Vuitton and Cartier.

I loved the stroll through this avenue at night although the temperature was close to zero. This is Paris at its best.

Eiffel Tower : Is the definitive landmark of Paris and one of the iconic monuments of the world. Named after the engineer who designed it ( Gustave Eiffel), it is the tallest structure in Paris. Visitors can climb up the tower ( Two different levels) using the elevator. The view is breath-taking, to say the least, on a clear day. The tower can be seen from most parts of the city and the view is great early in the morning and after sunset. The tower is lighted very well after the sunset with special lights glowing once an hour in the dark.

The morning view of the tower was fantastic and the night view just got better. See the tower from the Seine river cruise after dark.

Notre Dame Cathedral : A magnificent Gothic cathedral that has stunning interiors laced with stained glasses. It was the inspiration for the novel " Hunchback of Notre Dame" by Victor Hugo.

Pantheon : Once a famous church now it is more famous for its necropolis ( burial site). The church dome is still stunning having been modeled on the Pantheon in Rome. Amongst the famous people buried here are Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, Marie Curie, Braille.

It was a surreal experience staring at the graves of people that I deeply admire - Voltaire, Rousseau, Curies and Braille.

Conciergerie : is a former royal palace and prison in Paris where hundreds of prisoners ( including Queen Marie Antoinette) were imprisoned during the French revolution.

Being an history buff, the French revolution to me represents the true power of the people. Marie Antoinette's cell is modest and it describes with admiration the courage with which she faced the last days of her life.

Sainte Chapelle : Next to the Conciergerie, this magnificent church has stunning exteriors.

Père-Lachaise Cemetery : More than 80,000 people are buried in this cemetery, one of the most famous in the world. The most famous grave is that of Jim Morrison, who died in Paris at the age of 28. Oscar Wilde, Chopin are amongst others buried here.

Things could be scary if you come here alone. I visited the graves of Chopin and Jim Morrison but skipped the Oscar Wilde one since it was too far.

Basilique Du Sacre Coeur: Perched on the very top of Paris is this stunning white Roman catholic basilica that offers one of the most spectacular views of the city on a clear day.

Montemartre: An artistic village in the north of Paris famous for its painters, writers and artistic milieu. Picasso, Van Gogh have lived here at one time. I took a walking tour that started at the famous " Moulin Rouge" and then walked past the " Cafe Des Deux Moulins ( where the heroine worked in the movie "Amelie") to house no 54 where Van Gogh lived with his brother. Further ahead is the Sacre Coeur and the artistes village - Place du tertre , arguably the most touristy place in Paris.

Jardin Du Luxembourg: A great garden for jogging and walking, it is spectacularly green with water fountains. Next to it is the Senate building where the upper house of the French parliament convenes. The perimeter gate is adorned with historical incidents of European Union (EU) and its countries.

Seine river cruise : Most famous landmarks in Paris lie around the banks of river Seine. Add this to your list as its a great way to see these landmarks from the comfort of the boats.

I took the night cruise. Although it was quite cold, I really enjoyed the view.

Louvre Museum: It is the most famous museum in the world and houses the " Mona Lisa". This vast museum is spectacular, daunting and in a league of its own. If you were to spend 10 mins on each artifact , it would take you months to see around this museum. The main entrance is covered by the towering glass pyramid and the entire place oozes history and grandeur.

I spent around 6 hours at the Louvre on a less crowded day and was lucky to catch sight of some of the most famous possessions - Mona Lisa ( you won't believe how small this painting is !), Code of Hammurabi, Venus De Milo, The dying slave ( of Michaelangelo). I took an audio guided tour ( Self-guided with commentary in English) and would highly recommend it. I got lost many times inside this imposing museum and also lost almost 3 kilos due to the walk !!

Versailles Palace : A royal chateau located in the city of Versailles . This city was the capital of France for 100 years before the French revolution and the palace here was built by the great King Louis XIV. The palace is a symbolism of the French architectural beauty and bathed in luxury. Of particular note is the " Hall of mirrors" . During sunset, one can catch the reflection of this splendid palace from the garden ponds in front of the palace ( A photographer's delight). The palace is located outside Paris ( around 30 kms) but can still be reached by public transport ( Mtero + Bus). Don't miss this beauty !

Attractions that I couldn't see ( due to lack of time) : Countless but the main ones would be Musee D'Orsay, Musee Rodin, Centre Pompidou.

FINAL WORD : The city is a celebration of life, arts and history. Every street has a story and every landmark brings back memories of timeless events of the past. The " City of lights" is more stunning in the night. I now know why Parisians are so proud of their city and culture.

I hope to come back to Paris in spring to see its spectacular colors. Till then, Au revoir et salut Paris !

Cambodia ( Angkor Wat) - Travel Diary (Travelogue)



Cambodia is home to the magnificent temples of Angkor which are unmatched across the world for their brilliant architecture and artisanship. Today Cambodia is a developing country that is trying to match with its ASEAN neighbours, after years of devastation and carnage. The scars of the despotic Khmer rouge are slowly healing today , although there are still undetected land mines across rural cambodia. It is good to see Cambodia latching on to the information age with huge spurt in mobile phones and internet cafes that have mushroomed in the country. As a country with such a rich legacy, it certainly deserves better.

HISTORY : Indians started arriving in Cambodia from as early as 2nd century A.D and exerted a powerful influence until the 14th century. Hinduism was a dominant religion then , which is why most of the Angkor temples ( including Angkor Wat) are dedicated to the Hindu Gods ( Mostly Shiva & Vishnu). The temples of Angkor that include the famous " Angkor Wat" were built by the Khmer kings from 8th to 12th century.Due to the Thai invasion in 14th century and centuries of neglect , the Angkor temples turned into ruins until they were discovered by the French in 19th century. Cambodia gained independence after world war II but fell under the rule of " Khmer Rouge" in the 70's. Its notorious dictator Pol Pot set the year back to " Year Zero" , abolished currency and started an ethnic cleansification process that left more than two million people dead. The atrocities of Pol Pot still remain as a scar amongst most Cambodians and its a shame that he died without being punished. With a coalition government now, Cambodia finally seems to be on the verge of recovery.

GETTING HERE : Cambodia has two international airports - Phnom Penh ( The Capital) & Siem Reap ( Angkor) and is well connected to key Asian & international cities. Several international carriers including Air France, Malaysian Airlines, Silk Air, Thai Airways fly to Cambodia. Budgets airlines such as Airasia and Jetstar fly to Siem Reap too. Siem Reap is the closest town to the Angkor temples.

VISA DETAILS : Most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival ( including Indians , it costs US$ 20). I would highly recommend applying for a Visa online ( Its simple, very quick but costs US$5 more than Visa on Arrival). I got my online Visa in one hour ( amazing !!) and was able to avoid the uncertainty and long queue in the airport. Here is the URL for the Online Visa. If you have any issues in the online Visa ( such as photos failing to upload ) , email them and they will revert in a few hours.

WHEN TO GO : Tourists flock year-round in Cambodia to see the Angkor temples. Cambodia has a typical tropical climate - hot and humid. The best time to travel is from Mid-Nov to January when its a little cool and without rains. March - May can be extremely hot and should be avoided. The rains start from June and last till September and could be quite heavy particularly in Aug, Sept. Be prepared to come with plenty of Sunscreen lotion since it could quite hot during most part of the year. Cambodia can also be quite dusty and filled with insects. As a caution, bring anti-allergy tablets and general purpose medicines.

CURRENCY : The Currency of Cambodia is Riel . However, US Dollar is the "popular" currency and is widely accepted everywhere. Hotel Menu cards, shops, entry tickets are all priced in USD. Hence its not worth changing your US Dollar to the local currency. There are foreign exchange counters all over the main cities. At the time of writing, 1 USD = 4,000 Riels.

LANGUAGE : Khmer is the the most spoken language in Cambodia. English, French are spoken quite haltingly in tourist places. Make sure that you speak English slowly and clearly when conversing with Cambodians. In the rural areas people speak only Khmer.

LOCATION : Cambodia is in the ASEAN region and is close to Thailand & Vietnam. Phnom Penh is the capital . Most tourists come to Cambodia to see the famous Angkor temples which lie 8kms to the north of Siem Reap.

TRANSPORT :

Buses: There are hardly any public buses in Siem Reap and hence its not a preferred mode of transport ( unless you are relying on tour operators).

Taxis : Taxis are not very cheap and are limited.

Tuk Tuk : If you are budget traveller ( like me) , then Tuk-tuk is a great value. Indian cycle rickshaw + TVS Scooty = Tuk Tuk ( They tie a scooty equivalent vehicle to a rickshaw). It can seat 2-4 people and can be hired for $10/day ( including driver). If you travel to outskirts, then drivers may charge higher upto 15$ / day.

Bikes : Perhaps Cambodia is the only country where you can rent a bike with a driver ! ( No you can't drive it yourself and need a local driver). These cost even lesser and can be hired for $5-7 / day. One time drop-off could be as low as a dollar.

TIMEZONE : Cambodia is GMT + 7 hours.

HOTELS : Hotels range from extremely cheap ( as low as $5 / day ) to really expensive. In my opinion, the Siem reap hotels are quite inexpensive and great value. You can either stay close to the Angkor temple ( Not recommended) or at the Old market area in Siem reap ( Close to restaurants, shops and night market).

I stayed at the " Ta Prohm Hotel" near the Old market ( Psar Chas) area and would highly recommend it. It is very close to most restaurants (5 mins walk) and shopping areas. The staff are extremely helpful, courteous and make your stay pleasant. Its a 3-star hotel and cost me US$30 / night ( inclusive of breakfast). The rooms are really huge and clean and the TV has 100+ channels including some Indian channels ( SS Music, Zee, DD National). Though the breakfast is quite limited in variety, its still a great value for its sheer location. The restaurant at the hotel has some live bands playing on weekends and this might cause a bit of noise in the nights but nothing that is unbearable. Hotel rooms can be booked online through various travel websites ( I booked mine through Asiarooms.com).

FOOD : Cambodia prides itself on the Khmer cuisine. Siem reap has a rich mix of French, Thai, Chinese , Mediterranean and Indian restaurants. Being a vegetarian can be a problem because of lack of vegetarain options in the Khmer cuisine (due to which the food can be quite bland).

However, Siem reap ( particularly the old market) has several Indian restaurants that serve Vegetarian Thali ( costs between $2.5 - 4) , Naan, Roti and Tandoori dishes.The Veg Thali consists of either Naan / Roti with Yellow Dal, Rice, Veg curry and Aloo palak ( Almost every restaurant serves the same stuff - so much for differentiation !). Be prepared to wait for at least 20 mins since they start cooking only after you order.

I tried 5 different Indian restaurants and here is my rating of them :

Little India : Is located opposite to blue pumpkin in the Old market. Its quite inexpensive ( Thali is just $2.5) and adequate. Its one of the oldest Indian restaurants and I would rate it 3/5 ( Please remember that my expectations of food are quite basic and I always set the right expectations when on travel).

Currywala : Is located on the main road of Old market . The food was quite good here and they prepared it quite fast too. Its slightly expensive ( Thali is $4) but worth the price. I would rate it 4/5.

Taj restaurant : Is opposite to the Provincial hospital and is run by a Bangladeshi. The food was quite OK ( the curry was stale) . I would rate it 2.5 / 5.

India Gate : Is opposite to the Cambodia national bank building. The food was quite OK ( The rice wasn't cooked well) but the other items were nice. I would rate it 3/5.

Maharajah : Is in the street opposite to Provincial hospital. The food was a bit spicy although the owner was quite attentive and friendly. I would rate it 3/5 .

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS: DAY 1 ( Mini tour) :

Angkor Wat : Angkor Wat is the reason why most tourists flock to Cambodia and its easy to understand why. Its an amazing mix of Spirituality, architectural beauty and grandeur. Angkor Wat was built in the 12the century and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. There is huge moat of 1.5km by 1.3 km surrounding the temple. When you step into the inner causeway, you are awed by the spectacle in front of you. The walls are all filled with the Bas reliefs from Ramayana, Mahabharatha and other Hindu epics . Unfortuntely, most of the statues have been damaged or ransacked .

Sunrise ( At front entrance) or Sunset ( at rear) is a great time to be at Angkor Wat. The crowds are lesser in the afternoon. If you are a discerning tourist, you would at least need half-a-day for the Angkor Wat complex. Its a photographer's delight. Recently, " Night lighting" has been introduced at Angkor wat and I would highly recommend that too. The temples are illuminated with color lights and look absolutely stunning.

You can buy a 1 day or 3 day ticket for Angkor temples that covers most of the popular temples including Angkor wat and offers you unlimited visits. Tickets are available at the entrance to the archaeological park.

The tickets for " Night Lighting" are separate ( The night tickets can't be purchased at the entrance of Angkor wat , so beware of this fact. You need to purchase the "Night" tickets near the museum).

Bayon : Bayon is the most prominent temple in the walled city of Angkor Thom. It has 216 giant Avalokateesvaras that stare at you from everywhere with an enigmatic style. These faces bear a more than striking resemblance to Jayavarman VII who built the temple. Its a very unique temple that is also blessed with excellent Bas-reliefs.

Baphuon : Right next to Bayon, this temple is mostly in ruins now. Its supposed to be dedicated to the mythical Mt. Meru.

Phimeanakas : Next to Baphuon, it once housed the royal palace. However, not much of it is left now.

Terrace of Elephants : Close to Bayon, this was used as a viewing stand during the royal days from where the King watched the processions. Elephants adorn the entrance of this terrace and hence the name.

Terrace of Leper King : On a pedestal, this terrace has the statue that is an enigma to most historians. The statue is believed to be that of one of the Khmer kings who suffered from leprosy.

Prasar Suor prat : Beautilful brick buildings opposite to Elephant terrace that were the home of the rope dancers in the royal days.

Ta Prohm temple : One of the most " Junglee" temples, this temple is an example of how the Jungle has swallowed the temple. The roots of the trees have penetrated the inner and outer walls of the temple and is an amazing spectacle to watch.

Phnom Bakheng : Its a hill near Angkor wat and has ruined temples. Phnom Bakheng is one of the best places to see the sunset view of Angkor Wat. Unfortunately, every tourist in town knows this secret and the place would resemble a circus during the evenings with everyone jostling for a spot for their camera. Its a 15 min uphill climb to the top or you can take a Elephant ride. My advise is to either skip the hill or to go there a little early and start climbing down when it starts to get crowded.


GRAND TOUR ( DAY 2) :

Pre-Rup : A pyramid shaped temple , its made of red bricks and was the royal crematorium during the Angkor period. The sunset view over the verdant rice fields are a sight to watch.

Banteay Srei : Is one of the most spectacular temples in the Angkor region. Its got the best stone carvings in the entire Ankgor region, and its pinkish hue stone color adds to the beauty. It is supposed to have been built by women. The carvings are extremely intricate and feature the Ramayana and other Hindu gods. Do not miss this temple !

Eastern Baray : This was a reservoir during the Angkor period and has a small temple in the centre.

Ta Som : Is yet another temple that has been subsumed by the Jungle.

Preah Neak Pean : Is a Buddhist temple that has a huge pool surrounded by 4 small pools. At the centre of the pool, is a temple dedicated to the Nagas (Snakes) and features a strange mythical " flying horse". This place would have been a wonderful sight in the 12th century with water flowing across all the pools !

Preak Khan : It is one of the largest temples in Angkor and was used as a temporary residence by the King when the city of Angkor Thom was built. Its maze of corridors , carvings and the huge Linga are quite impressive.

DAY 3 :

Preah Ko : This temple belongs to the Roulus group of temples and is located 13km to the east of Siem Reap. The three Nandis are the most impressive of the structure in this temple. There are elaborate inscriptions in Sanskrit in the doors of this temple. Worth a visit on the way to Bakong.

Bakong : The view of the temple from the entrance is awesome ! This temple is a representation of the mythical Mt.Meru and is shaped like a huge pyramid. The moat in this temple is the best in the region with an amazing view .

Lolei : Features a buddhist monastery now and lies close to the Bakong temple. The temple is in complete ruins and very little is left in it.

Tonle Sap Lake / Chong Kneas Floating Village : Tonle Sap is a huge lake that borders the town of Siem Reap. The Chong Kneas is a floating village in it that has started attracting a lot of tourists. The path to the floating village can be a bit rough. After parking the vehicle, there is a 1.5 - 2 hrs boating tour. Be careful and negotiate the price for the boating ( I bargained and ended up paying $15 / person / 2hrs in a 2 seater boat). The floating village of Chong Kneas is fantastic and features Floating schools, churches, and shops. The boats stop at a fishing farm ( where one can see the Siamese Crocodile - now almost extinct on the Tonle Sap lake) and at Gecko center - a small environment center. Its a fantastic experience and I would highly recommend this floating village tour.

Day 4 :

Prek Toal Biosphere : Its one of the best bird sanctuaries in Cambodia and has birds such as Storks, pelicans, darters, and egrets. Its a one-day trip from Siem Reap and an NGO called " Osmose" arranges a day trip to this place. Be there either early in the morning or during late evening for best views. The trip costs $60 / person ( incl Transport, Food, entry fees and guide) .


SHOPPING : Cambodia is a great place for shopping. Its famous for silverware, paintings, T-shirts, handicrafts and stone carvings. The old market and the night market ( in the Old market area) are great places for shopping. Be prepared to bargain ( sometimes starting at less than half of what is quoted) if you want a good deal. I would advise not to buy stuff near the tourist places as they tend to be expensive.

MISC : If you want to relax, get yourselves a massage - body/ foot. I got myself a 1hr foot massage which was quite rejuvenating. Cost me $ 4 / person.

FAQ :

Is Cambodia safe to travel ?

If you stick to the tourist trail, Cambodia is pretty safe to travel . However, the rural areas are still dangerous due to the land mines that have never been unearthed. Siem Reap is extremely safe with a huge group of tourists who flock there year-round.

How much would a trip cost ?

I went for 4 days to Cambodia from Singapore. I am a budget traveler ( I rarely stay in fancy 5 star hotels nor do I rent an expensive car to drive me around) who likes to backpack and travel with crowds. It cost me US$ 500 or Rs. 20000 / person for the whole trip ( Includes Air travel, local transport, Accommodation, Temple entry fees, Food, Shopping , Departure tax , Visa fees, Misc ).

Do they speak English there ?

Most locals know a smattering of English that is enough for simple conversations. I didn't find the language to be a major issue. I had planned my trip well in advance and had the " Lonely Planet" guides and maps to tow me around. So the bottomline is, if you plan well , you should be able to manage.

Do I get Indian Food / Vegetarain food there?

Yes. I had already written reviews about the Indian restaurants in the "FOOD" section. But getting Indian/Veg food might be a bit of challenge ( not impossible) once you move away from Siem Reap.

FINAL WORD : If you love history, culture and architecture, you shouldn't miss Angkor Wat . Its a celebration of the spirit of mankind and is a crowning glory in the architectural history of this planet. One needs to be a discerning & Open-minded tourist to appreciate Cambodia.

I had a great time at Cambodia and would highly recommend it for everyone.

Macau - Travel Diary (Travelogue)

They call it the " Las Vegas " of the east. I would say " Goa + Mumbai + Las Vegas = Macau". It retains the Portuguese looks of Goa , has the chawl like old city feel of Mumbai and has the ultra-glitzy casino trendiness of Vegas. An amazing amalgam. With Macau already overtaking Las Vegas in gambling revenues, it is set to attract huge investments in the near future.

GETTING HERE : Macau has an international airport on the Taipa island and is well connected to most Asian cities. The flying time from Singapore to Macau was 3.5 hours.

VISA DETAILS : Indian Tourists traveling for less than 30 days do not need a visa ( Wow !) . However if one intends to stay for a longer time, the visa needs to be obtained from the Country of residence.

WHEN TO GO : By far the best time to visit is in April or Oct-Dec. Jan-March is cold and May-Oct is humid and there are thunderstorms in Aug-Sept.

CURRENCY : The Currency of Macau is Pataca (MOP$). 1 Pataca is roughly equal to 1 Hong Kong Dollar.

POLITICS : Macau is a special administrative region (SAR) of China, like HK and benefits from the priniciple of "one country, two systems".

LANGUAGE : Portuguese and Chinese are the official languages. Cantonese is widely spoken. English is rarely spoken and hence carry a translation guide with you. Get hotels names, tourist place names translated to Chinese to make things easier or carry a map with all tourist place names printed in Chinese ( I did both).

LOCATION & AREA : Macau is located close to Mainland China and Hong Kong. It consists of the mainland peninsula ( which is just 3km by 2km) and the islands of Taipa and Coloane (which are even smaller). Taipa, Coloane are 15-20 mins by bus from Macau peninsula.

TRANSPORT :

Buses: Plenty of buses ply the island. All name boards are in English (also) and the bus-stops have all the stop names. Since its a very small island , most places can be reached on foot.

Taxis : Taxis are cheap and available in plenty but remember that the drivers speak little English.

Ferries : There are ferry services every 30 mins to Hong Kong. It takes 1 hour to reach HK by ferry.

TIMEZONE : Macau is GMT + 8 hours.

FOOD : Macau cuisine is unique because of its mix of Portuguese and Asian cuisine. Being a vegetarian, I was a bit apprehensive before travelling ( Veggie food in a Chinese land ). However, I never had a problem thanks to the Pizza chains and Indian restaurants. Macau has three Indian restaurants.

Aruna is located close to the Sands Casino ( opposite to the Shell gas station on Avenida da Amizade) . Though its a small place, the food is tasty.

Indian Garden located on Taipa island ( close to the Macau stadium) is the best Indian restaurant on the island.Though a bit pricey, the food and ambiance is very authentic ( The bonus for me was that the owner hailed from Chennai !).

There is a Nepalese/Indian restaurant close to the Macau stadium ( in the complex to the right of gol chakkar next to the stadium). The food was quite good here too.

I can now claim to be an authority on Indian food in Macau, having tasted food at all the Indian restaurants on the island/peninsula !

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS:

Ruins of St.Paul's : Its the definitive landmark of Macau. The ruins are the facade of the church that was destroyed by fire in 19th century. Wonderful architecture !

Senado square : The most popular meeting place and venue for celebrations. Very spacious and colorful !

A-Ma temple : The most famous Chinese temple in Macau. I was amazed to see so many people throwing money (dollar bills) into a bowl of water !

St.Lawerence and St.Augustine church : Beautiful architecture inside the church.

Fisherman's Wharf : Visit the Volcano, joy rides and thematic cities inside this entertainment park.

Kun Lam statue : The "Statue of Liberty" of Macau. Its a towering and graceful statue that stands on a podium in the sea.

Sands Casino : Its huge. Its awesome. Reputed to be the largest casino in the world.

Wynn Casino : Glitz and glamour combine to make this casino a "must visit" place. Its also a fashion mall with all marquee brand names. Don't miss the fountain show in front of the casino. The casino is quite huge and I have a special liking for Wynn since I won $100 while gambling here !

FINAL WORD : Macau is very unlike the other cities that you might have seen. Go with an open mind and enjoy the amazing amalgam of cultures !